9th (Self Help) Day of Xmas – Mrs. Vreeland

It is true, the best of everything is a bit shocking, a bit nasty, just a bit off.  That’s what makes it interesting.  That is what makes it ‘a bit of all right.’   It’s too impossible to rattle through all the quotes of hers that are so spot-on incredible, and the film!  Even if you don’t a hounds tooth from a eyetooth and don’t ever care to, this woman is an instruction on how to LIVE!  Become it, make it, do it, EXCLAIM IT!  Always be interested, always learn, be excited about something/anything.  I guess, overall, do not be a passive participant in life, go out and make it whatever you want, become whoever you want, and perhaps, consider wearing your V-neck sweaters back-to-front, it’s simply more glamorous.

Diana Vreeland by Horst P. Horst.

“too much good taste can be boring.” - Diana Vreeland

Mrs. Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel

Last night, we saw “Diana Vreeland:  They Eye Has To Travel” at the Egyptian Theater.  Here is the movie synopsis:

An intimate portrait and a vibrant celebration of one of the most influential women of the 20th century, an enduring icon whose influence changed the face of fashion, beauty, art, publishing and culture forever. During her fifty year reign as the “Empress of Fashion,” she launched Twiggy , advised Jackie O and coined some of fashion’s most eloquent proverbs such as “the bikini is the biggest thing since the atom bomb.” She was the fashion editor of HARPER’S BAZAAR where she worked for 25 years before becoming editor in chief of VOGUE followed by a remarkable stint at the Met’s Costume Institute where she helped popularize its historical collections.

She is a frequent subject here at waldina.com and deservedly so, she changed 20th century fashion, she got people to dream, she gave numerous fashion designers, photographers, writers, and models their break.  She made it a party that everyone was invited to and encouraged to attend.  And if you have learned anything, you will rise to your feet, exclaim “GREAT!”, rouge your ears, reverse your V-neck sweater, throw on your favorite blue jeans, and brush up on your knowledge of the Ballet Russe (it will be a topic of conversation), and never look back (always forward).

“too much good taste can be boring.”Diana Vreeland

Her official bio from the movie website:

DIANA VREELAND: THE EYE HAS TO TRAVEL is an intimate portrait and a vibrant celebration of one of the most influential women of the 20th century, an enduring icon whose influence changed the face of fashion, beauty, art, publishing and culture itself forever.
Along the way, the story of Vreeland illustrates the evolution of women into roles of power and prominence throughout the 20th century, and travels through some of the century’s greatest historical and cultural eras, including Paris’ Belle Epoque, New York in the roaring twenties, and London in the swinging sixties. It also spans such historical events as the great wars, the flights of Lindbergh, the romance of Wallis and Windsor, the Kennedy inauguration, and the freewheeling spirit of the 1960′s youthquake, and the advent of countless fashion revolutions from the bikini to the blue jean.

Diana Vreeland (1903-1989) was the 20th Century’s greatest arbiter of style, an exotic and vibrant character who, during her fifty-year reign as the “Empress of Fashion,” dazzled the world with her unique vision of style high and low. She launched Twiggy, advised Jackie O, and coined some of fashion’s most eloquent proverbs such as “the bikini is the biggest thing since the atom bomb.” She lived a vibrant and remarkable life, and as the star performer in her own drama, Diana began writing the script for it at an early age.
It all started during the Belle Époque: modernism, Art Nouveau, the Ballets Russes, and haute couture. Diana was fascinated with the glamorous and eccentric characters of this era who paraded through her parents’ living room in Paris. But her childhood was also marked by the loveless relationship she had with her mother, an American beauty. “I was always her ugly little monster,” Diana recalled. As World War I started, the family moved back to America. Diana, forced to speak English, developed a stutter and failed in school. Eventually she dropped out and found refuge in dance, a true passion.

If Diana felt insecure about her looks, she never wallowed in it. Instead, she created her own world in which style, originality, and allure were supreme. She invented a dazzling persona that embraced every moment of life as an adventure, whether she was witnessing the coronation of George V or riding horses with Buffalo Bill in Wyoming. At 19, she captured the heart of one of the most handsome and eligible bachelors, Reed Vreeland – “the most ravishing, devastating killer-diller,” as she put it later. Together they settled in London and started a life full of romantic trips around Europe in their Bugatti coupé: Paris, Budapest, Vienna, Rome. During these years, she cultivated her love of couture and became friends with all the couturiers in Paris.

Diana’s unexpected career in fashion began upon her return to New York in 1936 when Carmel Snow, the editor of Harper’s Bazaar, noticed her unique style and look at a party. Diana was hired as Bazaar’s fashion editor, and she immediately became renowned for her provocative “Why don’t you?” column that dared readers to open their imagination and live their dreams. She would write homilies such as, “Why don’t you rinse your blond child’s hair in dead Champagne to keep its gold,” or “have a white monkey-fur bedcover mounted on yellow velvet?” Through her column and photography spreads, Diana lent the magazine pages of her amazing flair for beauty, high and low. Photographer Richard Avedon, who affectionately called her his “crazy aunt,” exclaimed, “she was and remains the only genius fashion editor.”

After twenty-five years at Harper’s Bazaar, Diana resigned and took over as Vogue editor-in-chief. It was the swinging sixties, where – as Diana would say – “you could have a bump on your nose, it made no difference so long as you had a marvelous body and carriage.” Uniqueness was being celebrated and Vreeland’s transformation of Vogue was at the vanguard of this cultural revolution. The pages of Vogue exploded with fashion, art, music, film; this became its “golden years.” It was suddenly a young, new and exciting magazine, where models had personalities and fashion spoke to all women. Diana became a living legend, with her striking silhouette, her jet-black hair, and her peculiar voice, somewhere between high society and street slang. Her famous red living room, “a garden in hell,” became the headquarters for New York arts and society. Diana would look upon these years as her most glorious ones; she had finally found an era fit for her vivid and wild imagination.

Shortly after the death of her husband, Diana was abruptly fired from Vogue in 1971, turning the fashion world upside down. Rumors had it that she was so distraught that she took to bed for a year, but Diana was far from having her last dance. In 1972, at age seventy, she started working at the Met’s Costume Institute where she set new standards for exhibiting fashion worldwide, awakening an institution that had been forever sleepy. Like a film director, she created sets in which elaborate fantasies came to life. Her controversial approach – based on drama and theatre sometimes more than historical fact – was criticized by some historians, but they were silenced when her shows brought in huge crowds and put the Costume Institute on the map. Diana blended fact with fantasy throughout her career, even once exclaiming that Charles Lindberg had flown over her lawn in Brewster on his way to Paris. Upon being asked if her story was fact or fiction, she responded, “Faction!”
 
Diana Vreeland was the oracle of fashion for much of the 20th century, inviting us to join her on a voyage of perpetual reinvention and take part in the adventure of life. Through her trained and diligent eye, she opened the door of our minds and gave us the freedom to imagine. Her images and accomplishments are as fresh and relevant now as they were then, and her spirit is just a vibrant and relevant today. As Jackie Onassis once put it: “To say Diana Vreeland has dealt only with fashion trivializes what she has done. She has commented on the times in a wise and witty manner. She has lived a life.”

Diana Vreeland by Horst P. Horst.

Diana Vreeland by Horst P. Horst. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

1960s Bond – Style Icon

Why He’s A Style Icon

In the nearly 50 years since the earliest James Bond movies starring Sean Connery were made, the special effects in the films have considerably improved with each passing decade. However, when looking back at the films that started it all, it’s striking how Sean Connery’s wardrobe as James Bond is as stylish and glamorous now as it was then. In the early ‘60s, most men donned a suit and tie every day when heading to the office, and the always perfectly turned-out James Bond provided an example of classic British style that showed men around the world the importance of dressing like you’ve got somewhere to go. Not one to be caught dead in anything that didn’t exude class and polish, ‘60s Bond stuck to luxe basics, demonstrating to men everywhere that looking perpetually good can be as simple as buying the most high-quality garments you can afford and wearing them with confidence.

And regardless of the generation you belong to, if you’ve ever had any doubt about the power of clothes to influence women, ‘60s Bond proves that practicing good grooming and putting a bit of effort into your wardrobe will actually increase your masculine allure and make you utterly irresistible.

Dress The ‘60s Bond Way

To look like Sean Connery’s ‘60s Bond, you’ll need to start buying your clothes as classically as you can. If it’s at all possible within your shopping budget, get a British-style suit made just for you. It will fit like a glove, emphasizing all the best parts of your body and creating the look of a very strong and masculine physique. And don’t be afraid that old-English tweed blazers or three-piece suits will be difficult to pull off. While it’s true that modern men don’t dress up as much on a daily basis as ‘60s James Bond did, all you have to do to avoid seeming old-fashioned is pair these pieces with some contemporary apparel. When it comes to what to pack for a holiday, we can all learn a thing or two from ‘60s Bond as well.

In 1965’s Thunderball, Sean Connery is pictured defeating evil-doers in the Bahamas in a blue and white vertically striped shirt and a pair of white trousers, a look that’s just as cool and elegant now as it was then. The stripes on this comfortable shirt are slimming and nothing says vacation like crisp white pants. Of course, James Bond never leaves home without his impressive collection of watches, including the Rolex Submariner in Goldfinger (1964) and the Breitling Top Time in Thunderball.

Style Icon: ’60s Bond – AskMen.com.

Jean-Paul Belmondo – Style Icon

NAME: Jean-Paul Belmondo
OCCUPATION: Film Actor, Theater Actor, Television Actor
BIRTH DATE: April 09, 1933 (Age: 79)
PLACE OF BIRTH: Neuilly-sur-Seine, France

Best Known For:  Jean-Paul Belmondo is a French film star, unconventionally handsome, he became the antihero of the French New Wave cinema movement.

Jean-Paul Belmondo earned international fame in Godard’s 1960 film Breathless. By 1965, he had acted in 25 films. He continued with portrayals in Pierrot le Fou, Mississippi Mermaid and Les Miserables (1995). Suffering a stroke in 2001, he did not return to the screen until 2008.

What You Need To Know

  •     Making your look appear effortless actually takes a little bit of effort.
  •     He often wore a half-undone collared shirt and worn-in driving moccasins.
  •     Roll your shirt sleeves, undo a couple of its buttons, and skip the iron for the Belmondo look.

Why He’s A Style Icon

The 1960 film Breathless was acclaimed as much for its mastery of popular new-wave cinema as it was for Jean-Paul Belmondo’s breakthrough role and sense of style. Belmondo’s irreverence as a thug running from the law created a new type of leading man on screen. Everything he wore was critical to developing a brazen character who appropriately modeled himself after Humphrey Bogart, who himself was such a trendsetter that a variation on the fedora bears his name. However, Belmondo’s look is no copycat. It belongs in a class all its own.

Clad in trim trousers, a blazer and a fedora while dangling a never-ending cigarette from his mouth, he epitomized French street style in every possible way. It’s a look that, when worn today, is completely carefree while still being fashion conscious. At its heart is a feeling of adventure that comes from looking like you didn’t try too hard. Belmondo, in a way, has come to represent a style that is perfectly imperfect.

Still, Belmondo’s real status as a style icon comes from an unwavering confidence that’s just shy of cocky. He could have been draped in a burlap sack, but his swagger made anything he wore look cool. Most people believe that a suit is the only thing that truly makes a man look handsome, but Belmondo was equally as dashing in the simplest of clothes. He often wore a half-undone collared shirt and worn-in driving moccasins. It was the perfect combination for kick-starting a Vespa and driving off into a Provencal sunset.

Dress The Belmondo Way

Ironically, the trouble with making your look appear effortless is that it actually takes a little bit of effort. This is not about looking like you just rolled out of bed to grab the first thing in your closet or, for that matter, off your floor. Your goal should be to put a cohesive look together that doesn’t look overworked.

A few key additions to your wardrobe will help do the trick. The truly fashion-forward can go against the mainstream and dive directly into a double-breasted blazer. It’s a risky move, but a well-tailored one sans shoulder pads and paired with dark denim updates a classic without looking like you were plucked from 1985. If the blazer is too much for you to handle, try a double-breasted trench coat, like the Burberry Trench Style Raincoat. Just be aware that this is not the bulky, calf-length variety. It should be deconstructed, lightweight and cropped at the thigh or just above the knee. You can throw it over anything — even that T-shirt that was in fact laying on your floor — and look pulled together without exerting too much effort.

For a more relaxed slice of Belmondo styling, you could opt for a simple white button-down shirt. Just make sure to keep it comfortable. Roll the sleeves, undo a couple of buttons, and skip the iron. Anything too labor-intensive just isn’t Belmondo.

Jean-Paul Belmondo: Style Icon – AskMen.

Diana Vreeland

Diana Vreeland by Horst P. Horst.

Image via Wikipedia

“too much good taste can be boring.”Diana Vreeland

Gloria Vanderbilt – Style Icon

NAME: Gloria Morgan Vanderbilt-Cooper
OCCUPATION: Artist, Fashion Designer, Writer
BIRTH DATE: February 20, 1924 (Age: 87)
PLACE OF BIRTH: NY, New York

BEST KNOWN FOR: Known for her fashion design and tumultuous personal life, actress, writer and artist Gloria Vanderbilt became an iconic figure in American popular culture during the 20th century.

Gloria Laura Vanderbilt (born February 20, 1924) is an American artist, author, actress, heiress, and socialite most noted as an early developer of designer blue jeans. She is a member of the prominent Vanderbilt family of New York and mother of CNN’s Anderson Cooper.

At 17 years old, Vanderbilt went to Hollywood where she married agent Pasquale (“Pat”) DiCicco in 1941;[20] they divorced in 1945.

Her second marriage, to conductor Leopold Stokowski in April 1945, produced two sons, Leopold Stanislaus “Stan” Stokowski, born August 22, 1950 and Christopher Stokowski, born January 31, 1952; they divorced in October 1955.

On August 28, 1956, she married director Sidney Lumet; they divorced in August 1963.
She married her fourth husband, author Wyatt Emory Cooper on December 24, 1963. They had two sons: Carter Vanderbilt Cooper (born January 27, 1965 – July 22, 1988) and CNN news anchor Anderson Cooper (born June 3, 1967). Wyatt Cooper died in 1978 during open heart surgery in New York City. Carter Cooper committed suicide at the age of 23 by jumping from the family’s 14th floor apartment as his mother tried in vain to stop him. Vanderbilt believed that it was caused by a psychotic episode induced by an allergy to the anti-asthma medical prescription drug Proventil.

She has three grandchildren by her eldest son, Stan: Aurora, born in March 1983 and Abra, born in February 1985, both to author Ivy Strick, and Myles, born in 1998 to artist Emily Goldstein.

Gloria is very close friends with comedienne Kathy Griffin, and while appearing as a guest on her son Anderson Cooper’s talk show, Anderson on September 19, 2011, referred to Kathy as her “fantasy daughter.” Kathy refers to Gloria as “Glo”, as did her third husband, Lumet.

During the 1970s, she ventured into the fashion business, first with Glentex, licensing her name for a line of scarves. In 1976, Indian designer Mohan Murjani’s Murjani Corporation, proposed launching a line of designer jeans carrying Vanderbilt’s name embossed in script on the back pocket, as well as her swan logo. Her jeans were more tightly fitted than the other jeans of that time. The logo eventually appeared on dresses and perfumes as well. Along with her jeans, Vanderbilt also launched a line of blouses, sheets, shoes, leather goods, liqueurs, and accessories.

Vanderbilt is the author of four memoirs and three novels, and is a regular contributor to The New York Times, Vanity Fair, and Elle.

As soon as I stop speaking the pearls disappear

Letters of Note: As soon as I stop speaking the pearls disappear.

It was in 1963 that Diana Vreeland became the highly influential editor-in-chief of Vogue, having previously worked at Harper’s Bazaar for 25 years first as a columnist and then fashion editor. Add to these achievements her “discovery” of both Lauren Bacall and Edie Sedgwick, plus her role as style-advisor to Jaqueline Kennedy whilst First Lady, and you have something of a legend in the world of fashion.

More importantly, she also spent her Vogue-era mornings dictating memos to her staff. From her bathroom. Below are just a few of the thousands she crafted mid-ablution, over a hundred of which were complied in issue #37 of Visionaire back in 2002. Although released as a limited edition nearly a decade ago, copies are available at Amazon as I type.

Apologies for the low quality of the scans, however transcripts can be found below.

From MRS. VREELAND

Date DECEMBER 6, 1966

RE: COVER SITUATION

Our cover situation is drastic…

I do not hear from anyone an idea or a suggestion of either a face or something that would be suitable…

We are on the verge of a drastic emergency.

————————-

From MRS. VREELAND

Date DECEMBER 9, 1966

RE: PEARLS

I am extremely disappointed to see that we have used practically no pearls at all in the past few issues. In fact, many necklines could have been helped by pearls worn inside the dress that show inside the cutaway sides and back of most ordinary dresses on top…

I speak of this very often — and as soon as I stop speaking the pearls disappear.

Nothing gives the luxury of pearls. Please keep them in mind.

————————-

From MRS. VREELAND

Date JUNE 5, 1967

RE: FRECKLES

I am extremely disappointed that no one has taken the slightest interest in freckles on the models…

I heartily suggest that we get going as soon as possible on this delicious coquetery– and that you experiment well before pictures are taken…as the only time we have tried doing this, the spots turned out to look like black moles instead of pale red freckles…

All these suggestions were in my telexes from Paris– and I was hoping to see them throughout the next few issues…and it is high time we get on to this.

Please discuss with Carol Phillips’ department the best stuff to use.

————————-

From MRS. VREELAND

Date SEPTEMBER 16, 1968

RE: SERPENTS

Don’t forget the Serpent…

The serpent should be on every finger and all wrists and all everywhere…

The serpent is the motif of the hours in jewellery…

We cannot see enough of them…

————————-

From MRS. VREELAND

Date OCTOBER 24, 1968

RE: ELSA PERETTI

I have seen several pictures now – one of Avedon which you will see in November and one of Waldeck which you will see in the Arts Department -

This girl I know looks like another generation – her limbs and the way of using her body…

However she is a complete Plisetskaya in my opinion – I think you could do the greatest most fascinating fashion pictures of her…

No-one has fussed with her hair…

No-one has taken trouble with the girl because the photographers are still looking for babies and I have to add, none of them are finding any…

I think to show clothes this girl is superb, but no-one is fussed with her…

She has done her best and I believe – though of course I don’t know – she has always felt unwanted and only used for clothes of a certain proportion…

She has a small bust which with a proper bra can be gotten around – and outside of that her body, legs, arms, wrist, and throat and brow are superb…

I suggest that she is refreshing and that you use her…

————————-

From MRS. VREELAND

Date Monday, 2 November, 70

RE: TONNE GOODMAN

I think Tonne has the makings of a good model – strength and ease in getting “off the ground.”

Tonne has not learned how to smile or to use her eyes or to make herself extraordinary with her face.

This is something you must teach a model and then see to it that she carries it out!

Please do not fail with this girl – though she is not pretty – she pulls together perfect bones and proportion in an aristocrative manner.

See pictures?

Hat Weather

20111116-090428.jpg

The first cold bit of weather always brings me back to this hat. Those of you that have known me for any length of time can skip over my fashion fanboy ten year obsession rant that is the Dior Mohawk hat, circa 2000.

That is, unless you can knit or are a personal friend of the Dior archivist.